People Who Love Surfing Won’t Shut The Hell Up About Surfing

“When You Try Surfing Once” is a short comedy documentary about a surfer who doesn’t let his beginner status prevent him from fully embracing the surf culture in his new home of Bondi Beach, Sydney, Australia.

Follow Chris Drabble on Facebook or Instagram.


FIELD NOTES FROM THE FUNNY OR DIE STAFF

If you’ve never surfed, are you really even alive?

If you’ve never snapped off a sick barrel or clucked after charging an epic wave because you just got axed by tumble dry low with a set of gnarly foamies, can you even call yourself a human being?

If you’ve never felt the all-consuming, yin-and-yang, full-throttle eroticism of communing with the now and the never, or melted the illusion of the self while dick dragging your board with the rest of the dawn patrol, only to be consumed by the nothingness of the neverending, can you even say that you are collection of multicellular structures working in harmony to create the conscious experience that “you” think is “you” but is actually just — get this — a wave?

Anyway, surfing.

This mystical magical board-based experience comes to you from Chris Drabble.

CREDITS:

Created by Chris Drabble


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Published at Mon, 01 Jul 2019 13:00:00 +0000